A November to Remember

Well well, I've been really lazy recently with the blog. I've been climbing plenty mind you but just can't find the time to update the blog. I think if I knew more about what the people that read this blog read it for I would be more motivated to post. So..I've created a couple of polls on the right hand side of the page for people to tell me why they visit and what they want improved etc. Any additional feedback would be top! Also would anybody like to see articles on a subject: injuries, training, projects, general opinions, interviews etc? If people are interested I'd do things like that too. Please leave some relevant comments with this post. If you can be bothered tell me what you thought of this post too. Cheers :)

Righty. When I last posted I reported that I had fallen off of the end of the 8b traverse twice. I was wrong. It was only the extension. This did though clear up what holds I was actually aloud to use and so the next time I went to Dumbarton I dispatched it 2nd go of the day. Huzzah! 7c and 7C within the space of a week. Both PBs too.

Almost repeating Consolidated Extension 7C for the camera after the send

I've been at Dumby many a time since over the past month and have managed to send absolutely nothing, as you do, until yesterday (more on that in a moment).

It seems all I do right now is climb at Dumby. The more and more I'm there the more and more I'm really enjoying it. At first it was one of the most oppressive and depressing places to climb I'd ever experienced. You get slapped about on problems that should feel easy, everything feels sketchy and extremely physical and the very aura of the place seems to hold you back. It constantly reaches seemingly record low temperatures, the odd midge that gets through the biting breeze is a savage and the nettles seem to be extra venomous steel barbed demons. Litter breeds here too - almost as fast as the many neds that leave it behind - and don't even mention the amount of glass. But honestly I'm loving it - maybe it's something to do with the extra dollop of achievement that seems to come with an ascent here, or the amount of learning and trying you need to go through to succeed? Is it because its a crag that actually has a "scene" in this country? Who knows?

Aside from my multiple forays into Dumby I've visited Agassiz Rock in Edinburgh. With Pete Murry filming (might get a video to upload at some point) myself and John Watson played with the many eliminates here guided by Dave Redpath. A few problems were had and Dave very nearly repeated his 8a traverse (it's well-'ard!) for the camera. I also did a new problem - well, and unlisted eliminate - at around 7A - Jammin' Beneath the Darkness. I was asked to do a wee interview thing about my first impressions of the crag but I'm a bit shy of talking for the camera and declined. My impressions though are that for anyone that doesn't come from Edinburgh and isn't mega bored with their local crags its worth one half-day visit. The climbs are quite physical and good for training but almost every route is heavily eliminate. For anyone that isn't climbing 7A or above there are only a few lines to do too. Certainly a nice enough spot though, but I don't think I'll be returning in a hurry.

Agassiz Rock

Yesterday was a great day: the sun was out and the temperature low with a light wind. Friction was sure to be good and the psyche levels of Mike, Ben (no I wont plug your sponsor Ben) and Danny where high (especially Ben who was about to explode with anticipation of the coming day!). Once there the place was mobbed!

Ben, with his free new shoes (I'm naming no names) was to spend the day trying King Kong 8A having dispatched Silverback a short while ago after more or less laying siege to it. With a bit of new beta from Niall McNair (who happened to be looking strong on Sabotage 8A+) and some hard work he got out to the crimp on the arete a couple of times from the start. Good effort!

Ben Litster working King Kong 8A

Later on he and Mike tried Hoops 7C - a scary power rockover above a bad landing -and came very close to sending it. They feel that Hoops is a very neglected problem and more people should be getting on it. I can't really comment though as I completely bottled the rockover and never really tried it. (more photos on my Photography Page)

Ben en-route to the slippery top of Hoops 7C

Mike went to Dumby yesterday with a few problems in mind. He's been trying Pongo sit-start 8A and is coming pretty close to making the move to match the flange. Also on the agenda was Consolidated Extension 7C which he managed to get to the triangle on before coming off. I feel your pain here Mike!

Michael Lee working hard on Pongo SS 8A

Danny Laing, however, was the undisputed star of the day. He has been working on Gorilla - a Dumbarton Uber-Classic - for over a year now. He stuck the layaway for the first time not too long ago and since then has fallen off everytime he hits it. Yesterday was different. With oodles of support and the camera at the ready it was time for Danny to leap this major Dumby hurdle. After plenty of attempts and some sequence rethinking he hit the top jug for the first time. Four times he took a death defying swing from the jug - landing in the glass bottles and nettles of the slope below and beyond in horrendous positions. Four times he got back up and gritted out another try, muddied and sore. His next try would have to be the one. In the last seconds of this where he had matched the jug he got the most dodgy heel hook ever - ignoring the good rock over spike. It looked like he might come off and land square on his back. Everyone was screaming for him - "further, further! Come on Dude! Go go go!". Despite the heel he fought through and pulled onto the slab. What a moment! Congratulations Danny!

Danny on Gorilla 6B

For myself the day was pretty damn good too. I've been trying to get Totality 7B+ for quite a while now and yesterday I managed to touch the last hold twice from the bottom. It will go soon for sure. I tried Home Rule low traverse 7A and I've nearly got it done (finding it hard without being able to crimp on the left due to a partial pulley tear I've had for a few months). I also almost repeated Consolidated Extension 7C falling off at the last move (as per usual) first try. One problem that has been defying me for a long time too is Mestizo sit-start 7A+. Yesterday I finally had success on this (my first send for ages) by completely ignoring the beta that seemingly everyone uses and making my own sequence. Once I did that it went no bother at all and I found it to be a truly top quality problem. I really need to learn to do that more often! Seriously though - for anyone trying it don't try and crimp that silly little dimple - there is another way! Following on from this I then started trying Mestizo Traverse 7B to try and make the day an elusive double. I got to the Arete hold twice (if you stick this you're done) and managed to slip off it. Doh! Next time! I hope everyone had as good a time as we did yesterday - it was in the top five for sure! A November day to remember.

Cheers folks,
Stewy

Ben congratulating an elated Danny